1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

All Princess models specific items.
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Tony c
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Tony c » Sun May 17, 2020 10:18 am

Wow, what a transformation, the colour really lifts the interior, you must be pleased with the outcome.
Tony

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Mon May 18, 2020 4:40 pm

I'm delighted with it. I'm hoping it wears well.

Today, my new tools arrived so that I could get the Princess head back together, namely a proper camshaft clamping tool and a micrometer. Went for an old fashioned mechanical metric micrometer since it's a tool I use so rarely it seemed a bit wasteful to get one that needed batteries. There also wasn't really any price difference between this nicely made old tool and a cheap new one built to a price.

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If I'm really lucky, the shims I already have in the two heads I've got will have the sizes I need between them to suit the new valves. We shall see.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Wed May 20, 2020 3:27 pm

New valves have all been lapped in, this took less time than I was expecting, got to nice clean even surfaces fairly quickly. This is possibly due to the valves having only just been done before I bent everything, I just expected the new valves to require more work to align.

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Unfortunately I didn't have time to do more than fit the camshaft clamp ready for measuring the valve clearances tomorrow, so that's what I did and that's where we leave it for now.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Thu May 21, 2020 4:02 pm

Spent some time today trying to get the valve clearances what they should be. The book states Standard Tappet Clearance to be .30mm plus or minus 0.03mm. It also states adjustment is only required if clearances are below .20mm. I was going to do this job in the shade in the garage until I found how frustrating it was to try and turn the crankshaft without everything sliding off my wobbly table, so I improvised with some cardboard and loosely bolting the head to the block. This made measuring etc. a lot easier.

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After measuring everything I had my first readings. I hadn't changed the order of any of the shims from how they were previously, the only change was fitting the new valves.

From left to right we had .35mm, .10mm, .40mm, .30mm, .45mm, .05mm (just, this one very tight), .45mm, .20mm

I then did some maths to figure out what size shims I needed along with measuring and labelling all the shims out of the head I was working on so I could figure out what best went where.

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This quickly became quite frustrating as I didn't have exactly the shim sizes I wanted, so I shuffled things around to try and improve and got:

.45mm, .30mm, .35mm, .20mm, .35mm, too tight to measure, .50mm, .20mm

I then robbed the shims out of my spare head to try and improve matters, most of the shims in that head were a good bit thicker, and even with those the only measurement I improved was getting #7 to go from .50mm to .40mm

I ran out of patience at that point. I was too hot and working in a spot I couldn't shade. I'm going to have another crack at this tomorrow when I've more free time to devote to it, I suspect if I do a bit of shim swapping I might be able to get the numbers a bit more balanced, moving the .20mm ones into the .45 and .50mm ones might just balance things out so we're more in the .30-.33mm range.

I have a lot of shims that are too big and I was wondering if it's safe to file or sand them down to the thickness you want since they are, on the face of it, just a disc of steel.

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Gasman
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Gasman » Thu May 21, 2020 4:24 pm

There's no problem in reducing the thickness of shims but ideally they should be engineered to ensure they are evenly thick
Martin
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Fri May 22, 2020 2:46 pm

General consensus concurs with that too, it seems shaving down shims is something you do when there's no other option for whatever reason, like the size you need being between the sizes available, or just that you can't get hold of a shim... or "it'll do" mentality.

A bit more maths, old metal tools, and the arrival of some new assembly lube happened today.

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The shims measure 15.5mm across, and the desired gap is .3mm (give or take .03mm). After a bit of swapping and measuring and generally reminding myself that I really do dislike the tedium of this particular sort of job, I finally had what is probably the best set of measurements I'm likely to get from the shims I have, without modifying said shims.

.30 (4.24 shim)
.30 (3.5 shim)
.30 (4.20 shim)
.20 tight (4.24 shim)
.30 (3.19 shim)
? can't quite get my 0.05 feeler in there, and that's the smallest one I have (3.08 shim)
.30 (4.31 shim)
.30 (3.07 shim)

That leaves me with just 2 to correct and that shouldn't be too difficult. 4 is easy to resolve, I just need a slightly thinner shim than I have available, 6 it's probably best to remove the shim and measure the gap to get some idea of where it ought to be. Given how much tighter 6 is than all the others I did wonder if the valve was sticking and did check, all appears to be fine and not sticking, so I guess the gap on that one is just a lot tighter for whatever reason. Ran out of time to do more on this today so tomorrow I'll take a look at what 6's gap is without the shim.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Wed Jun 10, 2020 6:05 pm

Important arrivals for the Princess today then. The shims I needed arrived from a friend in the States, bizarrely it was cheaper and easier to get the shims I needed sent over from one of his local suppliers than it was to try and get the size I needed in the UK. Fingers very crossed these are correct since they're the only thing stopping me putting the engine together.
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The other thing to arrive was a ridiculous impulse purchase I don't need and wasn't looking for. Too good an opportunity to pass up since it's unlikely I'll ever find another one, I've certainly never seen one before. Listed as a NOS Unipart accessory GLZ260.
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Just mocked up with tape for now, I'm waiting on some new drill bits arriving so I can actually put the holes in for it to be mounted. The whole thing is made of fibreglass with some steel brackets bonded in so it's both lightweight and fairly strong, which is ideal for the application. It's just the right amount of 80s tat for what I'm doing with the car and I'll be keeping it satin black rather than repainting it beige. The best thing about the way it fits is that it clearly is designed for the Princess rear end, the profiles all follow the shapes of the car properly and I really appreciate that.
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The original boot badges will be removed, they look out of place with the spoiler on there. Now, if I can only find a proper Autoplas rear window louvre that someone is willing to part with, they did make them for the Princess after all.

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Gasman
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Gasman » Wed Jun 10, 2020 8:05 pm

I saw this advertised too but I wasn't tempted. After all, it would never do on a Wolseley, old chap.

That said, it looks quite good on yours, which btw is meant as a compliment, and I agree with you about the badges :lol: :lol:

As for the Autoplas louvres. On second thoughts, if I can't find something nice to say, say nought...
Martin
Club Treasurer


Owner of:
Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Wed Jun 10, 2020 10:18 pm

It was acceptable in the 80s. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. :lol:

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Fri Jun 12, 2020 6:22 pm

Some progress today since the weather was pleasant enough and I had some time spare. First up was to have a rummage in my nicely organised salvaged fixings for some nuts and washers, the spoiler didn't come with any. As luck would have it, I had the perfect nuts and a set of both plain and spring washers. The plain washers are probably sufficient on their own really.
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Then I cut up the box the spoiler came in to make a template for drilling the holes. Since there's all sorts of unexpected curves going on, having a nice flat template made getting things marked out much easier. I was quite optimistic about fitting this today since I now have a chuck key for my drill and nice new drill bits...
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Then I found that we don't have an extension long enough to get from the plug socket nearest the Princess to the Princess. In fact, we don't even have a combination of extensions to do it. So that put paid to that job. Oh well, what's next? I suppose we should have a look at putting the engine together. Big thanks to these folks, over in America, and my friend out there that was kind enough to source and send the shims I needed. Happily, the measurements were correct and now all of the valve clearances are within the .30mm tolerance required.
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Threw some assembly lube about the place and shoved bolts in holes and all that good stuff and suddenly it was looking very promising.
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There were just a few hiccups along the way. After fitting the shims I did check the camshaft rotates freely by hand, I also checked it with the proper gasket and end plate fitted, and am confident this is now good to go. After doing that, I put the head bolts in and went to grab my torque wrench, only what I'd remembered as a torque wrench was actually an old ratchet drive and it turns out I don't actually have a torque wrench. That's a teensy bit of an oversight when you're trying to put a head back on. Never mind, there's other things could be done. The comically over-engineered hose clamps I'd bought went on fine to replace two of the incredibly poor quality clamps fitted and then I found I'd ordered the wrong size for the other two, so I need to order some more.
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Not to worry, at least the metal spiralised hose I got for the hot air feed to the air box was actually correct, unlike the too-narrow cold air hose.
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The small bit of hose I needed for the vacuum feed to the brake servo was also correct, happily, if a bit of a fight to fit.
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Disappointing then that the cambelt I ordered long enough ago that I can't return it was actually an auxiliary belt. On the plus side, I do have a nice new auxiliary belt to fit now and while there's nothing obviously wrong with the old one, I might as well throw a new one on if I'm doing the cambelt.
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The engine is at least in one piece now, and so far so good. I need to order myself a couple of hose clamps, a correct cambelt, and a torque wrench. A timing light wouldn't go amiss either since I don't have one. I'm going to hold off until I get the repair quote back for the BX's injection pump, just in case that ends up being more expensive than expected. Progress is progress, all the same, and I'm feeling happier for getting things back together a bit more.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Sat Jun 13, 2020 3:41 pm

A frivolity arrived. It felt just the right amount of wrong for the project. I don't know what it's from originally, it seems familiar so I wonder if I saw it on a lucky dip machine or something like that at a fairground from years ago. Pretty sure it's not from a vehicle. If you know, please let me know, I'd love to find out what it was on originally.
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Tried it out on the back and there's not really a place for it to live. You'll have to use your imagination to see the back end with the spoiler and without the original badges. Removing the boot lock isn't an option at the moment, though it is something I'd like to do in the future.
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Went around the car, trying it in different spots, and settled on the front grille. You'll have to employ a little imagination again, it's held on with tape and kept dropping lower than I wanted it. Also, the badge is completely flat and doesn't follow the curve of the grille here, when I fit it I can sort that easily enough either with clever fixings, or by recessing it into the grille bars. I like it, feels like an appropriate badge for the car.
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Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Fri Jun 19, 2020 6:53 pm

Right then, we're nearly there. All the tools and parts I need to get the engine back together have now arrived and I had enough time to do some of the work today. New torque wrench is worth what I paid and not a penny more, it does the job but it's hardly a high quality thing, typical Draper really. Just belts and timing to go and we can get this running, I hope, possibly even tomorrow.

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I did that after the drill work. Been keeping an eye on the weather and made use of a sunny spell during food break to crack on with fitting the spoiler. Worked out where I wanted it, marked the holes with the template I made, realised I'd got the template off centre only after drilling the holes, so redrilled the holes in the correct place and fixed the spoiler down.
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The inner bolts are easy to get to from inside the boot lid. The outer ones not so much, I'm going to have to drill the holes made in the bracing somewhat larger so I can get to the bolt and get the nut and washer on, as well as removing the boot struts to do so. Something of an oversight on Unipart's part there, if the fixings had been a bit further in board on the spoiler I wouldn't have this issue. Fairly standard It'll Do approach I've come to expect with anything British.
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The spoiler is really light, being just a fibreglass shell, so the boot lid isn't noticeably heavier and doesn't droop. Because of the way the spoiler is shaped, you don't have to touch it to open and shut the boot lid either, so that at least is good. I'm probably going to paint the spoiler beige, that seems to be more the norm for 80s modified stuff of this type. Badges will be removed from the boot lid too and when my welder is set up I can plug all the holes I don't want and repaint everything.
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With the spoiler now safely out of harm's way since I can't now knock it off onto something by accident, or whatever, I also fitted the new door mirrors. They're a copy of classic mirrors as fitted to many cars in the 70s with a larger mirror head than the originals. They are not fantastic quality, plenty of flashing on the edges and I doubt the chrome is going to last very long. They do look better than the Acty ones that were on there and the mirror heads are a similar size so are as functional so they'll do. I doubt I'll ever find mirrors I like for this car that look good and function well.
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Finally, tried to get a long shot of the spoiler and how it relates to the rest of the car. It's very cramped on the driveway just at the moment and not something I can solve while both cars are currently immobile. Hopefully it at least hints at how much better the spoiler shapes actually work and, if painted beige, I think it will blend in nicely enough.
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Gasman
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Gasman » Fri Jun 19, 2020 7:21 pm

New torque wrench is worth what I paid and not a penny more, it does the job but it's hardly a high quality thing, typical Draper really.
Would Mr President care to comment? I've always been pretty happy with Draper stuff. Better than Clarks stuff from Machinemart! Maybe that's not saying much.

As anyone who has read my machinations will know I'm a tremendous fan of Copaslip but even I don't put it on the cambelt cover :lol: :lol:
Martin
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Owner of:
Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Sat Jun 20, 2020 3:32 pm

Today has been a good day. Started by fitting the new cambelt and auxiliary belt and rotating the engine by hand several times to be absolutely certain I wasn't going to have another valve incident. Then set the distributor and hooked up the battery, did lots of checks, and eventually stuck the key in the ignition to see what would happen.

What happened initially was a healthy cranking over and a brief firing before having to try again, there was no fuel in the carburettor, it was taking a little time to bring some up from the tank. Eventually that was solved and it was then a case of finding the right amount of choke (turns out that was ALL OF IT) to get the car to run, which it did for a bit, and then didn't. That's fine, it's been about 6 months, grumpiness is expected. Turned the key and only got a click, no firing. Poked around in the engine bay, turned the engine by hand again (phew, it's not a valve party), and noticed that I hadn't tightened up the distributor and it was rotated all the way around, reset that and the car fired up, and then died. Another check and realised I'd forgotten to top up the dashpot on the carburettor, sorted that and the car fired up and ran. It was hunting a fair bit but the fuel is quite old (for modern fuel) and everything needed to bed in. Left it idling for a bit and the temperature started to come up quite rapidly. There was water in the expansion bottle so I assumed, erroneously, there was plenty of water in the engine. Five litres of water later, no harm done, though getting all the air out of the radiator proved to take rather longer than usual. With all the air out of the coolant system the temperature dropped to a reasonable half to three quarter on the guage and the hunting mostly settled out.

The longer the car has run today, the more settled its become. To celebrate, I moved the car back and forth until the rear brakes freed off and I can say that I've now actually driven the car, allbeit for only around a dozen feet.
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I'm pretty chuffed it's running again. Here's a terrible video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EI1kmX ... e=youtu.be

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Sun Jun 21, 2020 8:17 pm

Got the tools out again today and cut one of the access holes for the outer bolts on the rear spoiler.
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Unfortunately, I couldn't cut the other access hole because the hole saw I've got turned out to be unsuitable for the task. I guess it must be for wood or something. I did use oil when cutting to prevent it getting too hot and blunting. Ordered another one that's listed as being for steel so for now the spoiler is held on with three of four bolts. I need the spoiler fully bolted down before I can do the repair to the damage it suffered in transit, I want the spoiler to be repaired in the shape it will be when fitted rather than doing it off the car and potentially setting it in the wrong shape.
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Turned attention to the front end and the sidelights. I can't fit those yet because I need to modify the headlight bowls a little bit so the tangs on the back of the sidelight bulb holder will clear. Then I need some fresh connectors and a few tools to reconnect the wiring correctly. I've ordered some wiring stuff since I don't have any so I can sort this when that all arrives. Just sat the sidelight holder up in the blue wires here, you can see the circle in the back of the headlight bowl where this pushes into place.
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Can't do that, and I can't wire in the new front indicators, but I can fit them. These are intended for motorbikes, I got the largest I could fit in the available space. Drilled into the upright that holds the front grille and then simply fixed the indicators in place. I did have to unbolt and lean the radiator out of the way for the passenger side one as it was a little tight to get it in with the fan motor, the threaded post on the indicators is quite long.
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These should be large and bright enough to e seen, while also being far enough away from the headlights to not be obscured. They sit just nice behind the grille without restricting airflow to the radiator. Changing the bulbs is easy enough too should I have to since the screw that holds the cover on the bulbs is to the centre of the grille opening. The grille is open enough that it doesn't obscure the indicator particularly, I can always cut a couple of uprights out to make the light brighter if I feel I need to. I really like how invisible the indicators become in this location, it should really tidy the front end up a lot.
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Mon Jun 22, 2020 12:25 pm

The mojo, it has returned, because today I drove the Princess up and down a nearby private track and did a few emergency stops to wake the brakes up, which seems to have done the trick. Since the BX is immobilised currently and likely to remain so for another week, I wanted to be able to shunt the Princess about and work on it a little easier, so I swapped them around. Topped the coolant up in the Princess after a bit more air was evacuated, only needed a cup or two really, checked all the lights are operating which they are, though the indicators had a good long think about it before they wanted to join in, and left the car to idle for a while. I still haven't done the fine tune yet, I'm waiting on a digital tachometer tool to arrive so I actually know what the rpm is. The car smells like its running a little rich, and it's hunting a little at idle too which is likely down to the tune and the old fuel. Happily, once you actually drive the car the hunting goes away and its quite responsive. The other irritation is that it's a bit tappy, this is quietening down the more the car is run so I'm guessing it's just because everything is new and is bedding in, as the car warms up the tappiness does reduce and it's not Talbot levels of engine castanets so I'm not that concerned.

First job after car shunting was to fit the speakers up front. These are originally rivetted in place, I'm using self-tapping screws because it's what I have. They're only screwed into metal clips in the door card, the screws don't go into the door frame. I've only fitted these to cover the holes in the door card, there's no sound system fitted so the speakers are purely decorative at this point. My camera seems to think the door cards are dark magenta now too.
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With the Princess in a more open space I could get some better pictures of that spoiler so you can see what I can see and why it works best at the bottom of the boot. I will be painting it beige rather than leaving it black, it should work better that way.
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I also dug out the Lotus alloys. They need refurbishing so I have a lot of sanding in my future. Best of all the Lotus alloys drop straight on, I've got a full set of the proper original Lotus tapered-sleeve wheel bolts so there's no worries over spigot rings and that sort of thing. The only real difference on fitment is the offset since the Lotus is rear wheel drive where the Princess is front wheel drive but last time I had them fitted I didn't find I was destroying wheel bearings so I don't reckon it's an issue.
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Pretty sure I'm down to just cosmetic work now, of which there's a fair bit. Other half really wants the car properly resprayed, though was a little horrified when they found out how expensive that is until they learned just how labour intensive it is if you want a nice job. Ahead of the respray I want the displacers regassed (which I've been saying for years now) and there's a few little bits to address like the rear driver's door that hasn't had the final shaping on the lower trailing corner and the extra holes in the doors from previous mirrors. No really major jobs remain at least, aside from the paint, so it should be easy enough to chip away and get through it all.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Wed Jul 01, 2020 8:57 pm

Well, I ordered some more tools for doing the BX job so until those arrive, I switched back to the Princess to see if I could get it to be a little happier. First tool to arrive was the new timing light. This really only confirmed what I already hoped I knew, which is that the timing was where it should be. It's a useful tool to have in my arsenal, just not one I'm likely to use very often.
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When the car had ben running for a while I had noticed some moisture at the head gasket seam and retorqued the head bolts which has prevented a comeback of this. I did expect to have to retorque the head bolts after the engine had been run up to temperature a few times since it's always needed that in the past and only a couple needed any attention. I'll check them again periodically once the car is in regular use.
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Next thing was a cheap remote digital tachometer. There is a specific way of setting up a sensor and whatnot in the manual, this is cheaper and easier. The first mistake I made was listening to the wrong advice and putting the reflective tape on the belt, this gave me an rpm reading of about 50% of what I was expecting judging by the engine noise.

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Some better advice came along and I put the tape on the crankshaft pulley instead. This confirmed what my ears were telling me. First attempt to get things set up today saw the car running incredibly rich for no discernible reason, I suspect it was a sticky component in the carb or something of that sort because no adjustments made any difference. I came back to it later when it had all cooled down and while the car is now running a little richer than I'd like, it's within tolerable levels for a car of this age now rather than stinking the place up like a 1960s banger.

The book calls for 750rpm at regular idle, this car has never managed that in my ownership, no matter who has tried to set it up, so when I got it to the 800rpm it likes (or thereabouts, the tachometer is not particularly precise) it was deemed good enough. The carb had been returned to the book baseline and needed a tiny tweak of the mixture screw to make things settle nicely and then I just let the car idle for a bit.

I now feel confident that I can take the car to the fuel station for some fresh petrol which will no doubt improve the running and iron out the remaining niggles. Before I do that I need to get the car taxed and some fresh insurance on it, and swap my good wheels and tyres on. It starts willingly every time so it can't be that bad.

There's a bit of a fruity note to the exhaust that seems to be coming from around the backbox area and while I can't find a leak, I wonder if there's one about to start. The brakes still feel good, just not as good as when it was put away. The brakes aren't spongey or hard, they're just not as strong as I remembered, though my memory could be tinted slightly by the time I've spent in the BX with its ludicrous stoppers.

I've got a few insurers to try out for a quote, the Princess is rarely expensive to insure, even with the cosmetic mods it has declared.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Fri Jul 03, 2020 2:49 pm

Victory!

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Stuck a tenner of fresh fuel in it, which seemed to help on the way back home. Also inflated the tyres since they were all down at 21psi which is a bit low even for a Princess. It's a bit low on oil since the gear change is just a little notchy once its warmed up so I'll have to top that up when I get hold of some oil on my next outing. Still, it's nice to get out in it and I had forgotten just how much people stare at it.

Ended up going with Classicline who were very affordable.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Sat Jul 04, 2020 3:26 pm

And we're off the road again. Tried to go to get some oil since it was low and I didn't have any in stock and managed to get about half a mile before selecting gears became pretty much impossible. When I had to turn around I had to resort to turning the car off, selecting a gear, and starting it in gear. Thinking it was low oil causing the problem - it was still registering on the dipstick - partner took me to get some and we topped it up when we got back. Still no dice. Adjusted the bodge-bolt that replaces one of the pins on the gear lever selector ball which tightened up the gearchange, but still couldn't get the car in gear and it was getting worse. Re-checked the fluid level in the clutch reservoir and it's where it should be, attempted to bleed the system and no air came out but it was clear the clutch slave cylinder is not operating properly, the arm barely moves and now the gear selection is so poor that I can't actually select any gears.

There's a couple of new cylinders on eBay at the moment, Lockheed 4253-311 is the part number. This is what's on my car so it's what I stick to, even though every listing I've found inside and outside of eBay has it listed for the 2200 and I've been unable to find any listing for the 1700/2000 specifically. Due to financial constraints, caused by things like insuring and taxing the car yesterday, I haven't got the spare funds for a new cylinder so I've ordered a rebuild kit which has a ridiculously long delivery time on it because of course it does. Urgh. We shall just have to see whether or not the rebuild succeeds. Will have to order some new fluid too, of course, since I don't have any of that in stock either and didn't know I needed to get any when we went to get the oil.

What a fun day.

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Peter Laursen
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Peter Laursen » Sun Jul 05, 2020 9:06 am

Could be a broken spring in the master cylinder. I have had this problem many years ago.
Peter
Princess 2200 HLS 1975
Morris 1800 MK1
Wolseley 18/85 MK1
MGB Roadster MK1

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Vulgalour » Sun Jul 05, 2020 12:25 pm

We shall see. I've ordered a rebuild kit for master and slave cylinder and they'll arrive when they do. I haven't been able to find a replacement master cylinder yet, I would have preferred to just put a new unit on, so I'm hoping a clean and installation of the new kit will sort out what I've got. If it's a broken spring I've no idea where I'd get another.

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Gasman
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

Post by Gasman » Sun Jul 05, 2020 1:53 pm

Oh the joys of classic motoring. There's always something and usually something else besides...

You say the fluid level is OK and I therefore assume there are no leaks from either the Master or Slave cylinders. Surely this implies the seals should be OK? So why isn't the slave cylinder piston moving as one would expect. You've bled the system so presumably there's no compressible air in the system and anyway how could air get into the system except through a faulty seal... I've no idea what symptoms you get with a broken return spring. Surely that would mean the pedal wouldn't be returning to its normal position or at least the pedal feel would be strange? I'm a bit stumped.

The only good news is that those springs seem to be available as they also fit Minis PN 17H8070 .

I thought you were after a new slave cylinder not Master cylinder. We do have an old Master cylinder although it would almost certainly need new seals.


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Martin
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Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

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